Just when I thought the only entry for today would be….. Hammock, ocean, beach, sun, and surf all still amazing!!! The only thing I can think to say is “Zzzzzzzzz” as that’s about all I’ve been doing today….reading and dozing off as the hammock swings in the ocean breeze and as the waves crash onto the shore in the background while the sun shines in all it’s glory on this tranquil little pueblo.
But then as the sun went down everything changed and this sleepy little town turned into a party the likes of which I’ll have a hard time describing! In addition to the main event of the night….I felt very special as there were many familiar faces who remembered me from 2 years ago and who had a big “hello and welcome back” for me. Tonight is the annual celebration for the Virgin Guadalupe all over Mexico. Absolutely everyone in town turns out for the event which is kicked off by the final pilgrimage of residents following the “virgin” to the cathedral where everyone crowds inside for a shortened version of a mass. (They’ve been making this local pilgrimage every day and in every city in Mexico for the past couple of weeks and tonight is the last one for this year.) Children come and go freely from the church and even the dogs follow their families inside to participate. Lynda and I found a spot to call ours just outside the doors with about 25 others who hadn’t made it inside. There was a group of about ½ dozen kids ranging in age from 3-5 playing on the steps leading up to the church. Everyone watches out for all the kids so there is no worry about hanging onto your children here. This festival is a time for the community to come together in celebration and they sure do!
After church…..the food service started and so we got into line with all of the other residents. Barbacoa (BBQ beef with sauce) along with salsa and fresh tortillas was the fare tonight and it was delicious. There is no charge and everyone partakes. Following dinner there was a religious film shown in the church and many attended while the rest just stayed outside to visit. Cars completely filled the roads in all directions for at least two blocks so if anyone had wanted to leave…there would be no possible way that they’d be able to get their car out….they would have to leave in reverse order of their arrival.
Around 10 pm the greased pole contests began and this was so much fun to watch…..there were two poles…one for the younger kids (up to about 10 or 12 yrs) and another taller pole for the older boys/men. I’m not certain of the height of the poles but I’d say that the shorter one would have been at least 15-20 feet tall and the taller one at least 25-30 feet. Both poles had several prizes perched on the top of it and each had been slathered with lard from base to top. It took almost two hours but both poles were conquered and the prizes claimed. As the contestants are struggling to get to the top there are fellows on the ground throwing buckets of water at them (all aiming for their faces) in an attempt to break their concentration (and much of the time succeeding). Lynda and my role in the festivities took the form of soaking up much of the water that was being tossed! When the fellow on the other side of the pole from where we were in our front row spots tossed his bucket….there was lots of water that made it past the pole and the climbers and onto us. Thank heaven for waterproof cameras! I even managed to get a couple of shots in the midst of being drenched!!
After the poles had been bested and much excitement had already been enjoyed……it was time for the Castillo (traditional Mexican fireworks) in the form of a bull. One young man had been selected to carry the metal structure intended to be the bull. This metal structure was covered in homemade fireworks that ignited one another randomly and that shot out in all directions as the boy in the bull charged any and all within his sights. This insanity lasted for almost ½ hour and I’m sure there must have been at least some burns in the crowd. As much as it is absolutely insane…..there is something very special about being able to make a choice to enjoy something that you know may be a little dangerous and is certainly very exciting.
It seems as though everyone has some fireworks in their possession and they shoot them off randomly so you never know quite when or where the next one will come from.
I don’t even know what time it is here…..my computer says it’s just after 12:00 but I don’t think that can be right as someone told me that the bull was supposed to come out at midnight to bring in December 12th which is the actual day for Guadalupe and the bull has come and done his thing and we’ve walked home and had a drink and here I am typing this. In Mexico….people celebrate special dates (like birthdays) on the night prior so they can bring in the actual day at midnight. My watch is still on Mexico City time and it says 2:15 a.m. and my alarm clock is still on Chihuahua time and it says 1:15 a.m. so I have absolutely no idea which one is right but I’m pretty sure that one of them is. Maybe I’ll connect to some internet tomorrow and figure out what the right time here is. But…..if I don’t that will be okay too…..I’m already pretty skilled at saying “manana” .
There is still music playing in the distance and my guess is that will continue for the rest of the night, there is a crazy rooster just outside my window that crows all night long and sleeps all day, the waves are crashing on the shore across the road and none of it is terribly bothersome. Doesn’t take long to completely unwind in a place like this. I wish everyone could come and experience a little bit of this type of Mexico.
Hasta luego…..
L & L
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