Before I backtrack to tell you about the start of this very full day…..I must confess that we are currently sitting in the bar looking out over the canyons enjoying una cervesa con limon and it is not yet noon. Life is good at Posado de Barrancas Hotel Mirador. This bar is touted to be the “highest bar in Mexico” so we’re spending as much time in it as possible since we don’t want to miss out on any potential memories. Our shuttle to the train leaves here at 1:30 so we have a little time to kill and an opportunity to catch up on some of the goings on of this day.
Just had something happen that needs to be included here……the tour guide (of the group of 40 from Phoenix) named Tony….just came into the bar to sneak a shot of brandy and to debrief with us. His group has some VERY challenging people so this morning he has comforted a hysterical woman, calmed two angry men, paid for someone’s soda who only wanted to pay the happy hour price (which is ½), and consoled the chefs when people began to change their minds about what they wanted to eat for lunch….yes….his job is a crazy one and I hope they give him a healthy tip but judging from what we’ve seen of them so far…..it is doubtful. Yikes! Tony is back in for another one….things are not getting any better out there I guess.
Now…to begin at the beginning. We were up at 5:30 and the world was still enveloped in darkness as we bundled ourselves into blankets and out onto our balcony. There were still stars in the sky and as we enjoyed the last few of them….one of them fell so we both had an opportunity to make a wish in this very special place. Moments later there was the sound of sandals slapping on the rocky paths below us in the canyon as some of the Taramuhara began their day even before the sun was up. The Taramuhara walk and more often run everywhere….they’re re renowned for their ability to traverse rough terrain and pick out trails where none appear to exist. There were no other sounds until the first sliver of daybreak….long before the sun appeared there was just a hint of blue that invited a lone bird to welcome the coming day. From that moment and for the next hour we watched in wonder as the day dawned in all it’s splendor. Before the sun actually peeked over the mountain tops the clouds were alive with colour and stories. At one point there appeared to be an entire school of fish making their way above the mists rising from the canyon floor. Once the sun appeared it seemed to awake all that had been sleeping ….dogs began to bark from far away villages in the canyon, roosters crowed, and birds began to soar through the misty morning. A little squirrel made his way out onto an outcropping of rock just below our balcony so he could catch some of the first rays that would warm him from the chill of the night.
After a great shower and another amazing breakfast buffet we were off with David on our morning tour (8:30 start). First stop was the tram that only opened 10 months ago. This government sponsored and Swiss built tram defies all that is natural as it glides 220 meters above the canyon floor. The trip is 2 kms long and the tram moves along very quickly. In another week there will also be a 4 km long zip line (actually a series of 4 zip lines) that end at the far side of the tram line so you can catch a ride back up to the start. Also planned is a series of steps mounted in the rock face just below the start of the tram where climbers can make their way down to a suspension bridge which will then take them to a spot where they’ll be able to rappel down to the valley floor. Cost of the tram is 250 pesos (approx. $20) and the zip line will cost 600 pesos (and include the tram ride back up) once it opens. Looking down from the tram we can see several small clusters of Taramuhara homes….some of them are in cliff faces and others of them are free standing. One of the villages is called Bacajipare and another is called Wakajipare (combined population approximately 100). From the far side of the tram, hikers can choose to follow a Taramuhara guide down into the canyon bottom by foot where traditional ceremonies, dances, and a museum are available for visitors to experience. The Taramuhara people have free access to ride the tram any time they want to but they very rarely do….they prefer to travel by foot in and out of the canyon.
David, our guide, was doing a great job and once he heard the story about how our flower was travelling with us and often a focal point of our pictures….he was game to participate so he called to Lynda….”gimme the flower”….and off he trotted out beyond what appeared to be a safe distance from the edge. Within minutes David was standing atop a balancing rock with Flor in his hand rocking that massive stone back and forth as it banged against the rock below it making the sound of distant drums echoing in the canyon. Thankfully both David and Flor survived the adventure and before long we were making our way across a suspension bridge and into the small village of Diversadero (which would be our first stop on the train this afternoon). Since the train stops for 15 minutes at Diversadero and since that is where we planned to have lunch….we pre-ordered gorditas from Carmen so they’ll be ready for us when our train rolls into the station. Gorditas are fat tortillas with your choice of filling and they are 20 pesos each (less than $2) so lunch will be well within our budget.
We’ve been able to catch up on some blog postings here as David has secretly hooked us up with the wi-fi so will post this first have of today now and finish it off when we get access again.
All is good in Barrancas del Cobre.
L & L
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